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Article #341: Christmas Markets Germany

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We arrive in Munich and our guide makes horses with bells, over 400 stalls of
it clear this is Bavaria. Bavarians favor food and crafts, this is a s festive as
autonomy from Germany and even have their it gets! I graze my way through on white
own language. I have been here many chocolate bananas, fruit breads, glazed
times but looking through sober eyes now, grapes, dipped pretzels, pink marzipan
I find it more vibrant, clean and pigs, licorice angles and all types of
sophisticated. We spend 2 days with roasting sugar coated nuts. Shaped
Nancy, an excellent guide who has already gingerbreads are omnipresent and the
emailed me to remain in touch. aroma of warm sweet Gluh-wine fragrances
I have a mini-group of just 26 so this is the air.
like a vacation for me. It is a first I'm on a sugar high and head for the
time abroad for some and I love to learn crafts. Shopping is a blood sport here
from them as they notice things with through narrow lanes but MasterCard is my
child-like enthusiasm that I do not. armor and I find all my toy treasures.
This is the hi-tech land of engineering. There are giant nutcrackers representing
We pass a 9 story Mercedes dealership every occupation, unique mangers and 29
with new cars stacked to the shape of an trillion ornaments. At dusk the
Advent tree. We also see the BMW illumination begins. I pause for a
factory. I wish I could work here with 7 dinner of 6 bratwursts, Bavarian cheese
weeks vacation per year, 340 different and a pyramid of sauerkraut to last me to
work schedules to choose from, a gym, spa 2012.
and its many other benefits. We stop for In Rodenthal we toured the Goebel/Hummel
hot apple strudel and visit the well Factory. I anticipated boredom yet
known sites. became fascinated to learn how precious
Here is the 100th Christmas tree with each piece is. From 1871 to today, 700
2500 candles. Our welcome dinner at artists create these tiny non-useful
Haufbrauhous is a delight with yodeling, figurines. They are paid per piece and
alp horns and sausages of if a mistake is made, it must be broken.
everything-wurst. The group toasts their The highest paid artists are the delicate
steins of natural beer made only of face painters. I met one woman who has
barley, water and hops. spent 12 years just painting eyebrows,
It is time to move on to the enchanting another on lips and a man who has worked
storybook villages. This is a magical 10 years blushing cheeks! The eye strain
time to visit. No country celebrates must be like threading sewing needles for
Christmas with more passion than Germany. a lifetime and it takes 3 years
As we head to the alps, the morning sky apprenticeship to graduate to this level.
looks like a pale bruise. Soon a Initially our guide assumed we were a
blizzard engulfs our coach but we have an collectors club when in reality we can
experienced driver named Eno who we fell barely afford a baby Jesus.
in love with by trips end in 7 days. Later in East Germany we visited
We arrive at Neuschwanstein and ride by Lauenstein Confiserie, a chocolate
horse and carriage up to the famous praline factory that was so busy with the
castle. (This is the one Disney season, they hardly notice us. I tasted
fashioned its own after.) I have seen from the chocolate fountain nearly having
more castles than I can count around the a cocoa orgasm and confirm again that
world but this medieval knight's fortress America can never produce this product as
with gothic spires is spectacular. Built purely or satisfying as Europe.
in 1869, it looks brand spanking new with The best of all towns was Rothenberg,
decorated rooms intact. The 388 steps population 2300 where our Hotel Prince
inside are well worth the climb. There's was located right inside the fortified
hardly anyone here whereas summer can walls of Old Town. Our guided walk here
draw 5,000 tourists each day. In winter, instantly awakened all my 5 senses and
this fairytale castle becomes dreamlike made me want to linger for days. We tend
surreal. That's why I enjoy traveling to go over the top each year with our
off season. flashy decorations. Among the half
Pity poor Mad King Ludwig II who designed timbered homes here on cobbled streets,
this worlds largest, most extravagant, it is quieter and softer. One is taken
expensive and opulent castle for himself. back to the Middle Ages with the pewter
It's a sad story of the 6th king who ornaments hand crafted and evergreens lit
lived here only 4 months. The people with candles.
loved him as much as the German Tourist Afterwards, our guide Claudia invites us
Board does today. His family however, all into her home. I go to buy a
did not. They sought to declare Ludwig "snowball" for which this town is
insane and hired a team of psychiatrists renowned. They are piled high like
to prove such. Although he was prone to colored softballs in the windows. For
depression and insomnia, no doctor could over 300 years, these pastries were
find him mentally unfit. frugally made from scraps of fresh pie
After short rule, his body was found in dough. Dipped in chocolate, berries or
the lake and the family stated it was cinnamon butter, they melt in your mouth.
suicide. But the body of his As the sun shines, I remove my coat to a
psychiatrist was also found so most agree balmy 50 degress. How I wished it would
it was murder, particularly since an snow.
autopsy was refused. Later it was We end our tour in the Student Prince
determined that Ludwig was gay, so the town of Heidelberg with entrance to the
"fairytale king" was truly a fairy. famous castle and its 55,000 gallon
We stopped in charming Oberammergau, wooden wine barrel. That night I reflect
famous for its Passion Plays every 10 on a great trip, my last one for 2005. I
years. The wood houses are painted with write this journal so my wonderful little
fairytales: Hansel & Gretel, Red Riding group will remember it all. With pride,
Hood, etc. We then toured Nuremburg with I will always remember them; on time,
an astute guide who brought the city to patient, no complaints, generous tippers,
life before our eyes from 15th century to polite to locals and friendly with each
its destruction in WWII. other. Perfect travelers I wish I could
Some went off to the Toy Museum or clone.
Torture Museum while I set out to explore After hugging Eno goodbye, we exited with
the world's largest Xmas market. so many shopping bags that he now thinks
With giant lit trees, double carousals, he needs a trailer in tow of his coach.






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