| We arrive in Munich and our guide makes | | | | With giant lit trees, double carousals, |
| it clear this is Bavaria. Bavarians | | | | horses with bells, over 400 stalls of |
| favor autonomy from Germany and even | | | | food and crafts, this is a s festive as |
| have their own language. I have been | | | | it gets! I graze my way through on |
| here many times but looking through | | | | white chocolate bananas, fruit breads, |
| sober eyes now, I find it more vibrant, | | | | glazed grapes, dipped pretzels, pink |
| clean and sophisticated. We spend 2 | | | | marzipan pigs, licorice angles and all |
| days with Nancy, an excellent guide who | | | | types of roasting sugar coated nuts. |
| has already emailed me to remain in | | | | Shaped gingerbreads are omnipresent and |
| touch. | | | | the aroma of warm sweet Gluh-wine |
| I have a mini-group of just 26 so this | | | | fragrances the air. |
| is like a vacation for me. It is a | | | | I'm on a sugar high and head for the |
| first time abroad for some and I love to | | | | crafts. Shopping is a blood sport here |
| learn from them as they notice things | | | | through narrow lanes but MasterCard is |
| with child-like enthusiasm that I do | | | | my armor and I find all my toy |
| not. | | | | treasures. There are giant nutcrackers |
| This is the hi-tech land of engineering. | | | | representing every occupation, unique |
| We pass a 9 story Mercedes dealership | | | | mangers and 29 trillion ornaments. At |
| with new cars stacked to the shape of an | | | | dusk the illumination begins. I pause |
| Advent tree. We also see the BMW | | | | for a dinner of 6 bratwursts, Bavarian |
| factory. I wish I could work here with | | | | cheese and a pyramid of sauerkraut to |
| 7 weeks vacation per year, 340 different | | | | last me to 2012. |
| work schedules to choose from, a gym, | | | | In Rodenthal we toured the Goebel/Hummel |
| spa and its many other benefits. We | | | | Factory. I anticipated boredom yet |
| stop for hot apple strudel and visit the | | | | became fascinated to learn how precious |
| well known sites. | | | | each piece is. From 1871 to today, 700 |
| Here is the 100th Christmas tree with | | | | artists create these tiny non-useful |
| 2500 candles. Our welcome dinner at | | | | figurines. They are paid per piece and |
| Haufbrauhous is a delight with yodeling, | | | | if a mistake is made, it must be broken. |
| alp horns and sausages of | | | | The highest paid artists are the |
| everything-wurst. The group toasts | | | | delicate face painters. I met one woman |
| their steins of natural beer made only | | | | who has spent 12 years just painting |
| of barley, water and hops. | | | | eyebrows, another on lips and a man who |
| It is time to move on to the enchanting | | | | has worked 10 years blushing cheeks! |
| storybook villages. This is a magical | | | | The eye strain must be like threading |
| time to visit. No country celebrates | | | | sewing needles for a lifetime and it |
| Christmas with more passion than | | | | takes 3 years apprenticeship to graduate |
| Germany. As we head to the alps, the | | | | to this level. Initially our guide |
| morning sky looks like a pale bruise. | | | | assumed we were a collectors club when |
| Soon a blizzard engulfs our coach but we | | | | in reality we can barely afford a baby |
| have an experienced driver named Eno who | | | | Jesus. |
| we fell in love with by trips end in 7 | | | | Later in East Germany we visited |
| days. | | | | Lauenstein Confiserie, a chocolate |
| We arrive at Neuschwanstein and ride by | | | | praline factory that was so busy with |
| horse and carriage up to the famous | | | | the season, they hardly notice us. I |
| castle. (This is the one Disney | | | | tasted from the chocolate fountain |
| fashioned its own after.) I have seen | | | | nearly having a cocoa orgasm and confirm |
| more castles than I can count around the | | | | again that America can never produce |
| world but this medieval knight's | | | | this product as purely or satisfying as |
| fortress with gothic spires is | | | | Europe. |
| spectacular. Built in 1869, it looks | | | | The best of all towns was Rothenberg, |
| brand spanking new with decorated rooms | | | | population 2300 where our Hotel Prince |
| intact. The 388 steps inside are well | | | | was located right inside the fortified |
| worth the climb. There's hardly anyone | | | | walls of Old Town. Our guided walk here |
| here whereas summer can draw 5,000 | | | | instantly awakened all my 5 senses and |
| tourists each day. In winter, this | | | | made me want to linger for days. We |
| fairytale castle becomes dreamlike | | | | tend to go over the top each year with |
| surreal. That's why I enjoy traveling | | | | our flashy decorations. Among the half |
| off season. | | | | timbered homes here on cobbled streets, |
| Pity poor Mad King Ludwig II who | | | | it is quieter and softer. One is taken |
| designed this worlds largest, most | | | | back to the Middle Ages with the pewter |
| extravagant, expensive and opulent | | | | ornaments hand crafted and evergreens |
| castle for himself. It's a sad story of | | | | lit with candles. |
| the 6th king who lived here only 4 | | | | Afterwards, our guide Claudia invites us |
| months. The people loved him as much as | | | | all into her home. I go to buy a |
| the German Tourist Board does today. | | | | "snowball" for which this town is |
| His family however, did not. They | | | | renowned. They are piled high like |
| sought to declare Ludwig insane and | | | | colored softballs in the windows. For |
| hired a team of psychiatrists to prove | | | | over 300 years, these pastries were |
| such. Although he was prone to | | | | frugally made from scraps of fresh pie |
| depression and insomnia, no doctor could | | | | dough. Dipped in chocolate, berries or |
| find him mentally unfit. | | | | cinnamon butter, they melt in your |
| After short rule, his body was found in | | | | mouth. As the sun shines, I remove my |
| the lake and the family stated it was | | | | coat to a balmy 50 degress. How I |
| suicide. But the body of his | | | | wished it would snow. |
| psychiatrist was also found so most | | | | We end our tour in the Student Prince |
| agree it was murder, particularly since | | | | town of Heidelberg with entrance to the |
| an autopsy was refused. Later it was | | | | famous castle and its 55,000 gallon |
| determined that Ludwig was gay, so the | | | | wooden wine barrel. That night I |
| "fairytale king" was truly a fairy. | | | | reflect on a great trip, my last one for |
| We stopped in charming Oberammergau, | | | | 2005. I write this journal so my |
| famous for its Passion Plays every 10 | | | | wonderful little group will remember it |
| years. The wood houses are painted with | | | | all. With pride, I will always remember |
| fairytales: Hansel & Gretel, Red Riding | | | | them; on time, patient, no complaints, |
| Hood, etc. We then toured Nuremburg with | | | | generous tippers, polite to locals and |
| an astute guide who brought the city to | | | | friendly with each other. Perfect |
| life before our eyes from 15th century | | | | travelers I wish I could clone. |
| to its destruction in WWII. | | | | After hugging Eno goodbye, we exited |
| Some went off to the Toy Museum or | | | | with so many shopping bags that he now |
| Torture Museum while I set out to | | | | thinks he needs a trailer in tow of his |
| explore the world's largest Xmas market. | | | | coach. |