| Perfumes are carefully formulated mixtures of natural | | | | further, she continued, "And then you have a multiple |
| or synthetic oils, diluted with a suitable solvent. The | | | | accords put together, [which] become a big modern |
| dilution is important, because the fragrance oils | | | | orchestra." Many professionals who compose |
| contain sufficiently high concentrates of volatile | | | | perfumes agree that each of the notes creates its |
| components to cause allergic reactions or even injury. | | | | own scent, but they combine to create an emotional |
| So perfumes are frequently diluted in ethanol or an | | | | or sensual effect in the person wearing the perfume, |
| ethanol and water mixture, although the oils can also | | | | as well as those around. As Ackerman went on do |
| be mixed with jojoba, coconut oil, or even wax, so | | | | say, that you don't want anything to be |
| that most perfumes contain only 20% to 40% of | | | | overpowering. |
| aromatic compounds. Other fragrance products-eau | | | | While perfume was developed in the ancient world, |
| de parfum, eau de toilette, eau de cologne-are | | | | with its concept of the four earthly elements, the |
| formulated so that they have even lower | | | | future for perfume may lie in the fifth element, outer |
| concentrations of perfume oils. | | | | space. A joint research project between the |
| Eau de parfum contains, perhaps, 10% to 30% of | | | | University of Wisconsin/Madison and NY-based |
| undiluted oils; eau de toilette, between five and 20%; | | | | industry leader International Flavors and Fragrances |
| and eau de cologne even less, between two and | | | | put a plant onto a NASA space shuttle in order to |
| three per cent of perfume oils. It's interesting that | | | | ascertain whether changes in microgravity would alter |
| the art of mixing a perfume is frequently compared | | | | the fragrant essential oils plants produce. |
| to music, in which the different notes combine to | | | | IFF devotes about $100 million each year, to research |
| create harmony. Perfumes are described as having | | | | and development. Wisconsin scientist Norman Draeger |
| three different notes; head notes, or top notes; | | | | explained, "Companies like IFF are always looking for |
| heart notes, or middle notes; and depth notes, or | | | | new sources of fragrances that consumers haven't |
| base notes. Diane Ackerman, of International Flavors | | | | experienced before. They find plants form exotic |
| & Fragrances, explained how she creates a scent: | | | | places on earth, such as Africa or South America, |
| "you can actually smell the accords, which are like | | | | and identify pleasant tastes and smells." Pausing for |
| musical chords. | | | | emphasis, he resumed, "This latest exotic place |
| You will have simple fragrances, simple accords made | | | | where they haven't looked before happens to be in |
| from one or two items, and it will be like a two- or | | | | space. |
| three- piece band." Developing her own metaphor | | | | |