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Hello From Ontario: A Driving Tour Along The Niagara Escarpment

Although I love the city the summer alwaysis the fastest growing community in Canada.
makes me itch to get out into the country. SoThe population of Milton has grown by more
I called up my friend Karel with whom I hadthan 70% between 2001 and 2006 and stands
helped organize a conference many years agoabout 56,000 people now. Milton dates back to
and asked him if he would mind gettingthe 1820s when English settlers Jasper Martin
together in his neck of the woods nearand his wife Sarah were granted 100 acres of
Burlington for a country driving tour of theland  from  the  Crown.
Niagara Escarpment. Since we had not seen
each other for a couple of years it was aMartin built a grist mill along Sixteen Mile
great opportunity to catch up and enjoy aCreek and also created a pond, Mill Pond,
beautiful  drive  at  the  same  time.which is still in existence today and has
become a popular recreation area for local
So we met this morning on a parking lot justresidents with its walking trails and the
off Guelph Line in the north end ofgazebo  that  overlooks  the  water.
Burlington. I parked my car and off we drove
in Karel's convertible. We drove north intoMain Street in downtown Milton still speaks
the green countryside and up a slope to getof its Victorian heritage, old City Hall, the
to our first destination: a nature areaPost Office Building and several other
called the Mount Nemo Conservation Area. Wechurches and secular buildings date back to
parked the car and walked about 15 minutesthe mid to late 1800s. Many restaurants and
eastwards through a forest until we reached acafés have sprung up in the downtown core
steep cliff and a lookout point that offeredwhich beckon visitors to sit down and relax
a beautiful 180 degree view over the rollingon  some  of  their  outdoor  patios.
farm country that was sprawling far below us.
From the quaint town of Milton we headed
The Niagara Escarpment is a geologicalnorthwest towards a small village called
formation that extends from western New YorkAberfoyle, north of Highway 401. Karel
State through Ontario to Michigan, Wisconsinsuggested that we have lunch at the local
and Illinois. It originated as a result ofAberfoyle Mill, an actual mill that was
unequal erosion where a top layer of harderconverted into a restaurant in 1966.
and more resistant dolomitic limestoneAberfoyle itself was first settled in the
overlays more easily eroded shale. The1840s and is famous for its Aberfoyle Spring
gradual erosion of the shale leaves behindWater.
cliffs of resistant cap rock. The limestone
itself stems from an ancient tropical sea andThe Aberfoyle Mill itself was built by a
contains some of the most astounding fossilsScottish immigrant by the name of George
of  the  Ordovician-Silurian  geological era.McLean in 1859 and even won a gold medal for
its oatmeal at the 1867 World's Fair in
In Ontario, the Niagara Escarpment featuresPairs. After stopping operations in the late
the Bruce Trail: Canada's oldest and longest1920s the mill was purchased by the Owens
footpath that extends over 800 km (with sidefamily in 1960 who then spent six years
trails) from Niagara Falls in the South torenovating it and turning it into one of the
Tobermory in the north. The entire area hasmost  unique  country  restaurants in Canada.
been designated a UNESCO World Biosphere
Reserve due to its unique fauna and flora.Karel and I sat down at a table on an
The Bruce Trail itself is marked by whiteelevated platform that overlooked the
blazes (white markings about 8 cm high and 3restaurant. Various farm implements and even
cm wide) and is maintained by the Bruce Trailan entire sled were suspended from the
Association while side trails are marked byceiling and the mechanism of the old
blue  blazes.gristmill was still visible in a stairway to
the basement. I enjoyed a tender trout filet
One of the Niagara Escarpments distinguishingwith garden fresh vegetables and rice while
features are the many lookout points on themy friend and tour guide savoured his mixed
rocky outcroppings over an otherwise rathergrill. After our meal we walked around the
flat area. In addition, the Niagaraentire mill and admired the scenic pond that
Escarpment has dozens of waterfalls wherewas  home  to  a  group  of  Canada  geese.
streams and rivers tumble over the limestone
cliffs. The most famous of these waterfallsThen Karel introduced me to another famous
is of course Niagara Falls which is alsodestination in Aberfoyle: the Aberfoyle
reachable on a side trail from the BruceAntique Market, which although closed today,
Trail.holds more than 100 vendors of antiques
during market days and has become an
The Niagara Escarpment's unique naturalextremely popular weekend destination for
environment includes many bird species (somecollectors.
of them endangered) such as the Bald Eagle,
the Red-Shouldered Hawk, the Black Tern andOne more nature area remained for us to
the Hooded Warbler. Rare reptiles andexplore: the Spencer Gorge Conservation area,
amphibians also live in the area, for examplenorth of the City of Hamilton. We parked our
the Eastern Massassauga Rattlesnake and thecar at the entrance, paid the $5 day use fee
North Dusky Salamander. 37 species of orchidsby depositing cash in the self-serve box and
have been found in the northern parts of thestarted walking on the trail that would lead
Escarpment, including the Calypso Orchid, theus to Dundas Peak. Just about 150 m from the
Ram's-head Lady Slipper and Alaska Reinparking lot we stopped to admire Tews Falls,
Orchid. Considering that about 7 milliona waterfall with a height of 41 m that is
people live within close proximity thealmost as high as Niagara Falls. The water
biological diversity in this unique area islevel was pretty low since we have not had
astounding.any significant rain fall in a while, but I
could only imagine how picturesque this
We started walking on a trail right at thewaterfall must be when the water level is
edge of a cliff and Karel informed me thathigher.
the Niagara Escarpment is extremely popular
with rock climbers. I wanted to take a goodA serene 20 minute hike with occasional views
snapshot of the cliffs and crevices, but mypast the lush green trees into the Gorge took
fear of heights and the shear vertical dropus to Dundas Peak, an elevated cliff with a
prevented me from exploring the very edge ofplatform of natural stone that provides a
the cliff. The many caves are also popularmagnificent view of the Town of Dundas, the
with spelunkers. We walked about 20 minutesCity of Hamilton and the Niagara Escarpment
northwards and had a beautiful view towardswhich encircles the entire area. The rocky
Rattlesnake Point, another rocky outcropplatform is an overhang and with my fear of
along the Niagara Escarpment. Then we took aheights I made sure I stayed about two metres
side trail back through the forest to theaway from the edge since the edge of the
parking  lot  and  continued  our  drive.rocks continues into a sheer vertical drop
into  the  valley.
About ten minutes further north we stopped in
the village of Lowville to have a look atAfter our hike down we drove just a few
Lowville Park. The Sixteen Mile Creek slowlyminutes to Webster's Falls which is also part
meanders through the park and nature trailsof the Spencer Gorge Conservation Area.
branch off from the parking lot area. RightAnother waterfall was enchanting a group of
next to the park is the Lowville Bistro, achildren who were playing at the bottom of
recently renovated restaurant that offersit. Picnic areas and grassy meadows surround
upscale casual dining, a licensed outdoorthe river on both sides and a unique stone
patio, an ice cream parlour and take-out. Thebridge connects the parking lot with the
town itself dates back to the early 1800s andwaterfall.
was developed after the Mississauga Land
Purchase. The descendants of some of theseAt the end of this 20 minute walk we
early settlers still live in the villagecontinued on towards the Town of Dundas which
today. 36 historic buildings and a Pioneerdates back to 1847. John Graves Simcoe,
Cemetery still bear witness to this onceLieutenant Governor of Upper Canada, named
thriving  rural  community.the town after Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount
Melville, a good friend of his and a Scottish
Leaving Lowville behind we headed straightlawyer and politician who never even visited
north to another conservation area in theNorth America. Dundas still has a nice
Halton Region Conservation System: Crawfordhistoric core that features an old Post
Lake features a so-called meromictic lake, aOffice and various other Victorian era
deep body of water where different layers ofbuildings.
water do not intermix. This creates an
oxygen-poor environment that is not conduciveKarel proceeded to show me the remainders of
to living organisms. As a result,the Desjardins Canal, a historic canal that
archeologists are able to drill core sampleswas completed in 1837 and substantially
of soil from the lake bed that date backpromoted the growth of Dundas as a
several centuries. One of these drillings ledsettlement, but was later overshadowed by the
to the discovery of corn pollen and theopening of the Great Western Railroad in
conclusion that there was once an IndianHamilton in 1854. Due to the railway's stiff
village in the area. Subsequent archeologicalcompetition, the canal fell in disuse and in
digs confirmed the presence of a native1867 sediment blocked direct access to the
settlement.town, making it unusable. Today, the canal
has largely been forgotten, but there are
A 15th century pre-contact Iroquoian Villagesome walking trails along the canal near
has been reconstructed on its original siteCootes Paradise, a large wetland area at the
and features two wooden longhouses thatwestern  end  of  Hamilton  Harbour.
contain sleeping quarters, a fire pit and
storage areas for tools, animal hides andIt was now after 5 pm and our driving tour
food. Guides provide explanations of thehad come to an end. Karel drove me back to my
lifestyle of the Iroquois tribes thatvehicle and I thanked him sincerely for his
inhabited this area. This conservation areatime and for sharing his local expertise of
is a popular destination for school childrenthe Burlington, Milton and Dundas areas. We
and summer camps and during our visit severalresolved that there were so many interesting
groups of young people were enjoyingplaces that we had not seen and that we would
themselves in the grassy areas in front ofdo another driving tour in the area in the
the  long  houses.next  few  months.
The Niagara Escarpment is just full ofI was also a bit tired, but in no mood to get
protected nature areas, and just 10 minuteson the Queen Elizabeth Expressway during rush
north of the village of Campbellville ishour no less. So I drove all the way south to
another nature area: the Hilton FallsLake Ontario and had a quick peek at the
Conservation Area features excellent hiking,Burlington Waterfront which has been
mountain biking and cross-country ski trailsbeautifully developed in recent years. Since
in the area. More than 30 km of woodlanddark clouds were starting to roll in I
trails weave their way around the Hiltondecided to postpone my explorations of
Falls Reservoir and a 10 metre high waterfallBurlington for next time and embarked on a
cascades over the Niagara Escarpment. Acrossslow relaxing drive back to Toronto next to
the road from Hilton Falls is the Kelso /the Lakeshore. The western waterfront of Lake
Glen Eden Conservation Area whose highlightsOntario is very scenic with multiple public
include a sandy beach as well as 22parks and stately older mansions with
kilometres of trails for mountain bikers andbeautifully  manicured  gardens.
12  slopes  for  downhill  skiers.
Burlington, Oakville and Mississauga will
We continued our drive south to the Town ofalso remain to be explored next time.
Milton, which according to the 2006 Census,



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