Hello From Ontario: A Driving Tour Along The Niagara Escarpment

Although I love the city the summer always makesmountain bikers and 12 slopes for downhill skiers.
me itch to get out into the country. So I called upWe continued our drive south to the Town of Milton,
my friend Karel with whom I had helped organize awhich according to the 2006 Census, is the fastest
conference many years ago and asked him if hegrowing community in Canada. The population of
would mind getting together in his neck of theMilton has grown by more than 70% between 2001
woods near Burlington for a country driving tour ofand 2006 and stands about 56,000 people now. Milton
the Niagara Escarpment. Since we had not seen eachdates back to the 1820s when English settlers Jasper
other for a couple of years it was a greatMartin and his wife Sarah were granted 100 acres of
opportunity to catch up and enjoy a beautiful driveland from the Crown.
at the same time.Martin built a grist mill along Sixteen Mile Creek and
So we met this morning on a parking lot just offalso created a pond, Mill Pond, which is still in
Guelph Line in the north end of Burlington. I parkedexistence today and has become a popular recreation
my car and off we drove in Karel's convertible. Wearea for local residents with its walking trails and the
drove north into the green countryside and up agazebo that overlooks the water.
slope to get to our first destination: a nature areaMain Street in downtown Milton still speaks of its
called the Mount Nemo Conservation Area. WeVictorian heritage, old City Hall, the Post Office
parked the car and walked about 15 minutesBuilding and several other churches and secular
eastwards through a forest until we reached a steepbuildings date back to the mid to late 1800s. Many
cliff and a lookout point that offered a beautiful 180restaurants and cafés have sprung up in the
degree view over the rolling farm country that wasdowntown core which beckon visitors to sit down
sprawling far below us.and relax on some of their outdoor patios.
The Niagara Escarpment is a geological formation thatFrom the quaint town of Milton we headed
extends from western New York State throughnorthwest towards a small village called Aberfoyle,
Ontario to Michigan, Wisconsin and Illinois. It originatednorth of Highway 401. Karel suggested that we have
as a result of unequal erosion where a top layer oflunch at the local Aberfoyle Mill, an actual mill that was
harder and more resistant dolomitic limestoneconverted into a restaurant in 1966. Aberfoyle itself
overlays more easily eroded shale. The gradualwas first settled in the 1840s and is famous for its
erosion of the shale leaves behind cliffs of resistantAberfoyle Spring Water.
cap rock. The limestone itself stems from an ancientThe Aberfoyle Mill itself was built by a Scottish
tropical sea and contains some of the mostimmigrant by the name of George McLean in 1859
astounding fossils of the Ordovician-Silurian geologicaland even won a gold medal for its oatmeal at the
era.1867 World's Fair in Pairs. After stopping operations in
In Ontario, the Niagara Escarpment features thethe late 1920s the mill was purchased by the Owens
Bruce Trail: Canada's oldest and longest footpath thatfamily in 1960 who then spent six years renovating it
extends over 800 km (with side trails) from Niagaraand turning it into one of the most unique country
Falls in the South to Tobermory in the north. Therestaurants in Canada.
entire area has been designated a UNESCO WorldKarel and I sat down at a table on an elevated
Biosphere Reserve due to its unique fauna and flora.platform that overlooked the restaurant. Various
The Bruce Trail itself is marked by white blazesfarm implements and even an entire sled were
(white markings about 8 cm high and 3 cm wide) andsuspended from the ceiling and the mechanism of the
is maintained by the Bruce Trail Association while sideold gristmill was still visible in a stairway to the
trails are marked by blue blazes.basement. I enjoyed a tender trout filet with garden
One of the Niagara Escarpments distinguishingfresh vegetables and rice while my friend and tour
features are the many lookout points on the rockyguide savoured his mixed grill. After our meal we
outcroppings over an otherwise rather flat area. Inwalked around the entire mill and admired the scenic
addition, the Niagara Escarpment has dozens ofpond that was home to a group of Canada geese.
waterfalls where streams and rivers tumble over theThen Karel introduced me to another famous
limestone cliffs. The most famous of these waterfallsdestination in Aberfoyle: the Aberfoyle Antique
is of course Niagara Falls which is also reachable on aMarket, which although closed today, holds more than
side trail from the Bruce Trail.100 vendors of antiques during market days and has
The Niagara Escarpment's unique natural environmentbecome an extremely popular weekend destination
includes many bird species (some of themfor collectors.
endangered) such as the Bald Eagle, theOne more nature area remained for us to explore:
Red-Shouldered Hawk, the Black Tern and thethe Spencer Gorge Conservation area, north of the
Hooded Warbler. Rare reptiles and amphibians also liveCity of Hamilton. We parked our car at the entrance,
in the area, for example the Eastern Massassaugapaid the $5 day use fee by depositing cash in the
Rattlesnake and the North Dusky Salamander. 37self-serve box and started walking on the trail that
species of orchids have been found in the northernwould lead us to Dundas Peak. Just about 150 m
parts of the Escarpment, including the Calypsofrom the parking lot we stopped to admire Tews
Orchid, the Ram's-head Lady Slipper and Alaska ReinFalls, a waterfall with a height of 41 m that is almost
Orchid. Considering that about 7 million people liveas high as Niagara Falls. The water level was pretty
within close proximity the biological diversity in thislow since we have not had any significant rain fall in a
unique area is astounding.while, but I could only imagine how picturesque this
We started walking on a trail right at the edge of awaterfall must be when the water level is higher.
cliff and Karel informed me that the NiagaraA serene 20 minute hike with occasional views past
Escarpment is extremely popular with rock climbers. Ithe lush green trees into the Gorge took us to
wanted to take a good snapshot of the cliffs andDundas Peak, an elevated cliff with a platform of
crevices, but my fear of heights and the shearnatural stone that provides a magnificent view of the
vertical drop prevented me from exploring the veryTown of Dundas, the City of Hamilton and the
edge of the cliff. The many caves are also popularNiagara Escarpment which encircles the entire area.
with spelunkers. We walked about 20 minutesThe rocky platform is an overhang and with my fear
northwards and had a beautiful view towardsof heights I made sure I stayed about two metres
Rattlesnake Point, another rocky outcrop along theaway from the edge since the edge of the rocks
Niagara Escarpment. Then we took a side trail backcontinues into a sheer vertical drop into the valley.
through the forest to the parking lot and continuedAfter our hike down we drove just a few minutes
our drive.to Webster's Falls which is also part of the Spencer
About ten minutes further north we stopped in theGorge Conservation Area. Another waterfall was
village of Lowville to have a look at Lowville Park.enchanting a group of children who were playing at
The Sixteen Mile Creek slowly meanders through thethe bottom of it. Picnic areas and grassy meadows
park and nature trails branch off from the parking lotsurround the river on both sides and a unique stone
area. Right next to the park is the Lowville Bistro, abridge connects the parking lot with the waterfall.
recently renovated restaurant that offers upscaleAt the end of this 20 minute walk we continued on
casual dining, a licensed outdoor patio, an ice creamtowards the Town of Dundas which dates back to
parlour and take-out. The town itself dates back to1847. John Graves Simcoe, Lieutenant Governor of
the early 1800s and was developed after theUpper Canada, named the town after Henry Dundas,
Mississauga Land Purchase. The descendants of some1st Viscount Melville, a good friend of his and a
of these early settlers still live in the village today. 36Scottish lawyer and politician who never even visited
historic buildings and a Pioneer Cemetery still bearNorth America. Dundas still has a nice historic core
witness to this once thriving rural community.that features an old Post Office and various other
Leaving Lowville behind we headed straight north toVictorian era buildings.
another conservation area in the Halton RegionKarel proceeded to show me the remainders of the
Conservation System: Crawford Lake features aDesjardins Canal, a historic canal that was completed
so-called meromictic lake, a deep body of waterin 1837 and substantially promoted the growth of
where different layers of water do not intermix. ThisDundas as a settlement, but was later
creates an oxygen-poor environment that is notovershadowed by the opening of the Great Western
conducive to living organisms. As a result,Railroad in Hamilton in 1854. Due to the railway's stiff
archeologists are able to drill core samples of soilcompetition, the canal fell in disuse and in 1867
from the lake bed that date back several centuries.sediment blocked direct access to the town, making
One of these drillings led to the discovery of cornit unusable. Today, the canal has largely been
pollen and the conclusion that there was once anforgotten, but there are some walking trails along the
Indian village in the area. Subsequent archeologicalcanal near Cootes Paradise, a large wetland area at
digs confirmed the presence of a native settlement.the western end of Hamilton Harbour.
A 15th century pre-contact Iroquoian Village has beenIt was now after 5 pm and our driving tour had
reconstructed on its original site and features twocome to an end. Karel drove me back to my vehicle
wooden longhouses that contain sleeping quarters, aand I thanked him sincerely for his time and for
fire pit and storage areas for tools, animal hides andsharing his local expertise of the Burlington, Milton and
food. Guides provide explanations of the lifestyle ofDundas areas. We resolved that there were so many
the Iroquois tribes that inhabited this area. Thisinteresting places that we had not seen and that we
conservation area is a popular destination for schoolwould do another driving tour in the area in the next
children and summer camps and during our visitfew months.
several groups of young people were enjoyingI was also a bit tired, but in no mood to get on the
themselves in the grassy areas in front of the longQueen Elizabeth Expressway during rush hour no less.
houses.So I drove all the way south to Lake Ontario and
The Niagara Escarpment is just full of protectedhad a quick peek at the Burlington Waterfront which
nature areas, and just 10 minutes north of the villagehas been beautifully developed in recent years. Since
of Campbellville is another nature area: the Hilton Fallsdark clouds were starting to roll in I decided to
Conservation Area features excellent hiking, mountainpostpone my explorations of Burlington for next time
biking and cross-country ski trails in the area. Moreand embarked on a slow relaxing drive back to
than 30 km of woodland trails weave their wayToronto next to the Lakeshore. The western
around the Hilton Falls Reservoir and a 10 metre highwaterfront of Lake Ontario is very scenic with
waterfall cascades over the Niagara Escarpment.multiple public parks and stately older mansions with
Across the road from Hilton Falls is the Kelso / Glenbeautifully manicured gardens.
Eden Conservation Area whose highlights include aBurlington, Oakville and Mississauga will also remain to
sandy beach as well as 22 kilometres of trails forbe explored next time.